I was fortunate enough recently to have the opportunity to try out a Rancilio Silvia espresso machine, as well as a Baratza Vario grinder. Not only did I get to play with them, but I was allowed to take them home to see what they are capable of in a home environment. I brought the following home with me:

            Rancilio Silvia espresso machine

            Baratza Vario grinder

            Two 20oz steaming pitchers

            A 58mm tamper

            An 8oz latte style stoneware mug

    La Bella Vita Espresso

            Two shot glasses

 

Once I got everything set up, I set to seeing how everything measured up. 

First I took the resevoir lid off the back of the machine. I always use filtered water when brewing any kind of coffee at home. Bottled water is fine, as is Brita if you don’t have filtration on your water line. I filled the reservoir to the “Max” line and replaced the lid.  Once this is done it is safe to turn on the machine. 

 

Once the machine is on, I used the top rocker switch to run some water through the group head. If it’s the first time the Silvia is being used, the directions recommend that you run about 16 ounces through. I ran about 8 ounces through just to prime it. Once this is done, it’s time to wait for it to warm up. It takes about 15 minutes or so.

 

 

 

Now, to the grinder. I pulled some test shots to find the appropriate grind with the Baratza Vario. The model has been greatly anticipated prior to its release earlier in November. It is supposed to be one of the most versatile home grinders on the market, having a dual cam grind system. The macro setting controls general grind from ‘Fine’ to ‘Press’ depending on what brew method you are using. The micro adjustments are for fine tuning within the macro range you choose. It reminded me of tuning a stringed instrument. The lever on the right side is like the tuning pegs that get you in the close your pitch, while the left lever is like the fine tuners that narrow it down to the right tone.

 Having never used it, I wasn’t totally sure what I would encounter. I will admit, I thought it was going to be like other home grinders that I had used- never as consistent as a commercial model with grind settings that are a ‘ballpark’ at best. A lot of times their version of an ‘espresso’ grind is just not fine enough. In my slight doubt of it’s capability I went ahead and shifted the macro setting to the finest it would go and put the macro setting somewhere in the middle of the window.  Once the machine was warmed up I pulled my first set of test shots. 

 

The grinder has a timed setting to help with consistency of dose. You can adjust this setting to 1/10^th of a second depending on your dose. I was using about 18-19 grams which ended up being about 15 seconds of grinding total. I ground 7.5 seconds at a time and tapped the portafilter to settle the grinds into the basket. I added the second dose at 7.5 seconds, tapping as I went to settle and help distribute the coffee in the basket. After dosing, I set to leveling the coffee to ensure even distribution in the basket. Remember, water always takes the path of least resistance, so don’t give it any option but to soak evenly through the grounds.  

 

I used my 58mm tamper to pack the coffee into the portafilter with about 40 pounds of pressure. The most important thing to remember in tamping is that you need to be as level as possible. Any angle to the tamp and the water will follow it. Once it was tamped a ready, I rinsed the group head, put the portafilter in and pressed the rocker switch. I watched and waited.  

 

To my pleasant astonishment nothing came out. In that moment, I started to have a bit more faith in the little Vario. The fact that the grind was actually too fine gave me hope that it had potential to be dialed in properly. I didn’t get my hopes up quite yet, but I was more open to the device. All in all it took about 5-6 sets of shots before I settled in on a grind. And, impressively enough, it was actually the right grind. Working with ‘Bella’, the espresso blend I am most familiar with, I knew what I was looking for, and the Silvia delivered. It wasn’t quite am identical twin of what I get with commercial equipment but it was definitely a close cousin.

Now, as a bar barista, I only had one point of contention with the Silvia. You cannot pull shots and steam milk simultaneously. The machine has to be put into a different mode when you steam milk in order to generate enough pressure. It’s obviously preferable to have both your milk and espresso shots be used immediately after being prepared, but since it wasn’t an option, I decided to steam the milk first and let it sit for a moment while I waited for the machine to cool back down a little (about 30-45 seconds) and make the espresso. The espresso flavor would suffer the most from the exposure to the air, and there are clever ways around having foam separation.

When steaming the milk I followed barista protocol. You always want to purge the steam wand before steaming your milk to get any condensation out of the line. It’s especially important on the Silvia as it is how you determine whether or not there is enough pressure to steam. It only takes about 30 seconds for it to get up to temperature.

 

 

 

When steaming, always start with the tip of the wand just below the surface of the milk. I tend to put mine halfway between the middle and the sidewall of the pitcher. I have found this gets the best results, pushing the milk into a whirl pool as it infuses air into the milk creating a smooth and creamy texture.  The end result, while taking a little longer due to lower pressure, is as good as working with an Aurelia or any other commercial machine.

 

After steaming, I wipe down the steam wand with a damp towel to get all of the milk residue off, then I purge the steam wand to get any residual milk out of it. It’s best to clean your wand in this order, as purging it before you get the milk off of the outside will lead to a baking effect of the milk. If you have ever gone to a coffeehouse and seen an off-white tinge on the steam wands, it’s because they are cleaning it backwards, if at all.

 

 

I set my milk aside for the moment and switch the machine out of steam mode and wait about 20 seconds before I start preparing the espresso. I follow the same procedure that I did when pulling my test shots, only now I know that my grind it right. I pull my shots and cut them off as soon as the crema starts to get pale.

 

 

Once the espresso is ready I turn my attention back to the milk. I intentionally have two pitchers so that I can use the second one to pour into, a trick to reintegrate milk and foam. It’s best to err towards gentle so as not to add unnecessary bubbles in the process. Once the milk looks smooth and creamy it’s time to pour!

 

Start slowly. You want to let your crema rise as you pour. The faster you pour in the beginning, the more likely you are to rupture it.

Once you get about halfway it’s ok to speed up the pour a little bit. This allows a little more of the foamier milk to enter the cup. With a little wiggling and a fair amount of practice you can pour a little rosetta or other form of latte art too.

 

 

 

 

The finished product was actually quite good. It was better than 99% of drinks I have had at a café. The milk was smooth with a subtle sweetness, and La Bella Vita’s chocolaty body melded with it beautifully. It was just as good as lattes I have poured in our training room. It just took a little different approach than I was used to.

As far as both pieces of equipment go, I would recommend either to a serious home barista, or a professional looking for something that will suffice at home. The Silvia is pretty easy to work with and, while it could never keep up with catering or a constant line, it never faltered during my testing. The Reservoir has a 2 liter capacity, which was more than I need to pull several sets of shots and make a few drinks. The portafilter basket is the same size as a commercial one and you can swap it out for Nuova Simonelli doubles, as well as La Marzocco. It was actually a fun machine to work on once I got over my barista-ness. We tend to have little faith in things non-commercial.  The Silvia proved me wrong.

As for the Vario, it was the biggest surprise of all to me. I have never been able to figure out what kind of grinder I would want if I ever had a home set up. I had considered the Mazzer  Mini, but have been frustrated in my encounters with it. It’s slow, messy, and a little hard to work with. The Vario, however, was simple to use, kept a good pace with me, and was enabling me to produce commercial quality shots. As far as messiness goes, it was better than most Super Jollys. As an espresso grinder alone, it’s quite amazing. The fact that it can be used to grind for both regular drip and French press is just a bonus. It is hands down what I will buy when I finally get my dream home set up. 

Don’t forget that we are still running a flat rate shipping program on all coffee orders between 3 and 7 pounds. Any orders within that range will receive a flat shipping rate of $6 if shipping within the United States. Hurry to place your order so that it arrives before Thanksgiving!

LONDON (November 17, 2008) – World Barista Championship UK Ltd. has launched a worldwide search to fill the newly created position of executive director.
The World Barista Championship (WBC) is the world’s largest coffee competition, drawing competitors from more than 56 nations to serve espresso, cappuccinos and original signature drinks to a panel of judges.  The 10th annual World Barista Championship will be held April 16-19, 2009 in Atlanta, Georgia USA.

The WBC Executive Director will serve as a leader, visionary, ambassador and manager for the rapidly growing organization with the responsibility of carrying out WBC objectives, while managing the needs and expectations of a diverse group of international volunteers, sponsors and competitors.  The position reports directly to the company’s board of directors.

Essential duties and responsibilities of the executive director shall include:

*    Administer overall WBC operations and manage the organization’s activities;
*    Expand company brand recognition and participation in the WBC;
*    Generate a diverse and reliable revenue stream to fund and promote barista development and competition;
*    Develop and implementation an annual budget, manage finances of the organization;
*    Negotiate and execute contracts and commitments authorized by policy or the board of directors;
*    Maintain official minutes of WBC Board of Directors meetings;
*    Develop company policies and planning recommendations in collaboration with the board;
*    Maintain effective communication with both parent organizations; and
*    Recruit, hire, train, manage, promote, compensate and discharge staff as necessary and in a fashion that protects the interests and assets of the WBC.

Complete details and job prerequisites are available at www.worldbaristachampionship.com.  Applications, including salary requirements, may be sent to:

Attn: WBC Board of Directors
Email: search@worldbaristachampionship.org

About World Barista Championship UK Ltd.

World Barista Championship UK Ltd is a nonprofit organization jointly owned by the Specialty Coffee Association of America and Speciality Coffee Association of Europe. The first WBC competition took place in Monte Carlo in October 2000 and has since held annual competitions Miami, Oslo, Boston, Trieste, Seattle, Berne, Tokyo and Copenhagen. The organization’s next event will be held in Atlanta, Georgia U.S.A., April 16-19, 2009.   For more information, please visit http://www.worldbaristachampionship.com.

Lately at PT’s Coffee, we have noticed that when it rains, it really pours. We were ecstatic when we won Roaster of the Year from Roast Magazine. The subsequent 95 from Coffee Review for Finca Kilimanjaro seemed to top off everything. And now, just a week after the 95 for Finca Kilimanjaro, we received another 95 for our Organic Ethiopia Sidamo, Special! If there is anything more than icing on the cake, this is it. Maybe the candles?

Ethiopia Sidamo is one of the best coffees we have seen selling for under $20 a pound. If you would like a taste of what is possible with an Ethiopian coffee without paying $50 a pound, here is your opportunity.

Here is Ken David’s review:

“Blind Assessment: Complex aroma: distinct strawberry and table grape notes; hints of nut and cocoa. In the cup well-integrated acidity, lightly syrupy mouthfeel, and extraordinary flavor: wine-like and grapy but fresh; think nouveau Beaujolais, supported by ripe strawberry and cocoa. Long, sweet, cleanly grape- and strawberry-toned finish. Only a very, very slight salty unevenness in the cups discouraged an even higher rating for this striking coffee.

Who should drink it: Anyone curious about the tremendous potential of the new dried-in-the-fruit coffee types. And despite the unusual preparation and very light roast, this is an immediately pleasing, accessible cup.”

The coffee stained faces of a few PT’s Coffee Roasting Co.  employees graced the front page of the November 3rd edition of the Topeka Capital Journal.  In their article, “Coffee Roaster Recognized for its Way with Beans,” the Capital Journal discusses PT’s new Roaster of the Year Award from Roast Magazine.  Check out the article here!

 Thad Allton / The Capital-Journal

   

Magazine picks local business as top roaster

By Michael Hooper

 

 One would expect the finest roasters of coffee beans to be found in Seattle, Chicago or Portland, Ore. But one national expert says the best roaster of beans is right here in Topeka.

 PT’s Coffee Roasting Co., a wholesaler and retailer of specialty coffees, was named Macro Roaster of the Year by Roast Magazine, a magazine devoted exclusively to the coffee elite.

 PT’s Coffee Roasting Co. co-owners Fred Polzin, front left, and Jeff Taylor, front right, along with production assistant Brent Beckley, back left, head Roaster Adam Ross, back center, and production assistant Chris Weber, back right, are celebrating the company being named the Macro Roaster of the Year by Roast Magazine.

 Ninety-five percent of PT’s beans come from small premium lots in countries like El Salvador and Panama, “helping PT’s establish a reputation as a source for some of the best limited-edition coffees available in the U.S.,� Roast Magazine said.

 Jeff Taylor and Fred Polzin started the company in 1993. Today PT’s Coffee has 12 employees in its wholesale business in south Topeka and 17 in its coffee shop in Barrington Village.

 Roast Magazine complimented PT’s for its Passport Coffees, which are typically more exclusive than the company’s lineup of single-origin coffees. The Passport Collection includes such award-winners as Panama’s Hacienda La Esmeralda and El Salvador’s Finca Kilimanjaro.

 Perhaps the finest coffee at PT’s is Finca Los Planes in El Salvador, “a peaberry coffee that combines hits of the classic Central American cup with a deeper, fruitier taste, reminiscent of natural Ethiopians,� author Rivers Janssen wrote in Roast.

 “This is a vindication,� Polzin said. “People in the industry knew we were doing it right. This is a great calling card for us.�

 “I was blown away,� Taylor said of the award.

 About a week before the application was due, Taylor pulled together the team and gave each an assignment while they still did their other jobs.

 In three days, they compiled a huge book with more than 100 pages describing the history, mission and philosophy of PT’s Coffee and sent it overnight to Roast Magazine in Portland, Ore.

 Forty roasters submitted applications for Roaster of the Year.

 “This is not a large percentage of the coffee roasters in the world, but the quality of the competition was intense, both in the written applications and on the cupping table,� Roast publisher Connie Blumhardt wrote.

 After its start in 1993, PT’s got deeper into the roasting business in 2000. The company roasted 225,000 pounds of coffee last year.

 Polzin and Taylor do goal setting and strategic planning every year with the help of investor and mentor Jack Brier, but they also have to adapt to change, as PT’s started the year with the loss of a major customer representing 17 percent of sales.

 Using mostly guerrilla marketing techniques, the company has added 25 percent new customers this year and has seen tremendous growth in its online sales. Sales in 2008 are likely to be even with sales in 2007.

 Polzin said the company could have made money by compromising quality but didn’t do it because that isn’t their style or ethics.

 The company’s core values include commitments to great service, superior quality, caring for others, being frugal, having integrity and being consistent and improving all the time.

 “Be true to ourselves,� Taylor said. “We’re not going to compromise. Specialty coffee needs to be special. We don’t believe in buying coffee and saying it’s the best when it’s not.�

 Michael Hooper can be reached at (785) 295-1293 or michael.hooper@cjonline.com.

We finally have news about our Ethiopian Beloyas!  They are in the country and on their way.  We will roast and ship any back orders on Monday, November 17th.  If you have not put in your order yet, order before 8:00 am, Monday the 17th, and we will roast and ship it that day.  For those who are not familiar with Ethiopia Beloya, it is a spectacular coffee that will truly stun your palate.  It is known for its distinct berry notes that explode in your mouth.  This year we received two different selections of this wonderful coffee.  The different selections are similar to each other, but they both have distinct characteristics that set each one apart from the other.

Selection number eight is more fruit-forward than selection number one. This coffee is for those who enjoy very dramatic coffees. The sweetness that comes through in the aroma is almost like berry-flavored cotton candy. In the cup the berry notes immediately jump out at you. These berry notes are complimented by a subtle and rich spiciness in the finish. This exciting cup of coffee is sure to awe the coffee-lover.

Selection number one is just as excellent, but has a different flavor profile than lot number eight. It is a very complete cup: it has a nice balance between the distinct berry notes and the smooth creaminess. The sweetness neither dominates nor fades. This coffee is an absolute pleasure to drink.

Helping to open people’s eyes to the vast world of Specialty Coffee is an exciting part of working for PT’s Coffee. Watching as they take the first sip of an eye popping Ethiopian or a comforting Panama is always enjoyable. But one aspect of working for PT’s that does more than just create excitement or enjoyment is seeing coffee change lives.

Sergio, from Finca Los Planes, just e-mailed over some photos from a project that we have been working on in his hometown of Citala. We buy almost all of his coffee, including his Pacamara, Bourbon and Peaberry. This year, we agreed to pay him extra for his coffee so that he could pay his pickers more money and also so that we could set up a community development fund at the local bank. Among other things, this fund is being used to help buy medicines and supplies for the local health clinic. Thank you for all your support of our Direct Trade program. By buying Direct Trade coffees, you are making such things possible. Here are the photos, along with Jeff’s commentary:

“We are so very proud to be helping in the community of Citala! It’s a beautiful place and the people are amazing. Helping Sergio and Isabel do what is right in their community is a major part of our Direct Trade program. We look forward to contributing even more in the future, but this is certainly a wonderful start and we are honored to be a part of it!”

Sergio and Tito (the social worker)

We are proud to announce that Finca Kilimanjaro received the highest score, a 95, from Coffee Review in this month’s review of “Coffees of El Salvador and Honduras.”  Ken Davids was impressed with this Kenyan variety coffee that is grown in the volcanic highlands of El Salvador.  Here is his review:Blind Assessment: Big, enveloping aroma: flowers, honey, strawberry-toned fruit, with a deepening hint of molasses and nut. Gently bright acidity, delicately smooth mouthfeel, lemon, cocoa, floral, distinct strawberry notes. Long, sweet, flavor-saturated finish; the subtle strawberry note in particular persists.Who should drink it: A more accessible version of the great SL28 profile of Kenya: the fruit notes are less austerely dry; more flowers and strawberry, less black currant. Try out Finca Kilimanjaro here!  Or too see images of our last sourcing trip to Finca Kilimanjaro click here.

 

After being out of a good Kenyan coffee for a little while, it is wonderful to finally have a really good one back on our menu.  We have a couple different lots of Kenyans coming in this year, all of which range between really good and amazing.  The first one of these is the Ndaroini.  Cupping it yesterday, the first thing that stood out was its purity and crisp acidity.  It sparkles a little on your tongue with citrus notes that range between grapefruit and star fruit.  Its body is full, and aftertaste seems to be everlasting.  It is a pleasure to have such a great Kenyan back on our menu.  Try it out here!

 

If you are looking for a top of the line coffee brewer, we just received a new style of the coveted Technivorm coffee brewer.  We normally carry the Technivorm KBT-741, which are always sold out before we know it, and are currently out of stock.  The new style of brewer is the Moccamaster CD Thermo.  Mechanically, it is the same brewer.  The big difference is that it has a cylindrical body shape instead of a rectangular body shape.  For those of you who will not settle for anything less than the best, these brewers are for you.  Check out the new stlye of Technivorm here!